Answer: Not necessarily so.
Look at home hi-fi speakers, where lots of effort is spent to stiffen and strengthen the speaker enclosure (speaker box). Using logic, if you want maximum solidity, you can mount the speaker onto a concrete or cement box, and it'll be stiff as hell. But that won't necessarily give you great sound. It's not that simple. Stiffness does lead to reduced resonances, buzzing and vibration. But stiffness has nothing to do with tonality or the characteristics of the reproduced sound.
Similarly, if you want a great handling car, you can easily seam-weld the entire body, and strengthen it to the max like a race car or rally car. But doing this on a daily-driven car on normal asphalt roads, will result in atrocious comfort.
Any vibration damping material applied to the door can certainly dampen any vibrations by adding mass to the sheet metal. It makes the speaker sound more "solid" and "tighter". But the actual tonality and "liveness" might be worse than before. It's not so simple as "more Dynamat is better".
Too much damping material on your doors could lead to a "dead" sounding tonality where there's no character or liveness to the sound. If its SPL, you could have a point. But if its SQ (Sound Quality), I do not agree with the perception of "more Dynamat is better"
If you want your door speaker to perform at its best, never just mount them on the factory locations and hope for magical results.
1. Take measures to strengthen the mounting location.
2. Angle the mid-basses. Huge difference.
3. Speaker should not be too deeply recessed behind the grille. Minimise obstructions.
4. Do not use the original restrictive grill. You'l be surprised how much sound it obstructs.
5. From my experience and experimentation, use at least 80W RMS on each door mounted mid-bass driver.
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